Make a mixed-media collage on wood
Make a leather flower brooch
Scented fabric strawberry
Make a hairband from a tie
Sew a Fabric flower / Rose
Make Fabric heart invitations
Sew a Fabric Flower Corsage
Make eco-friendly decorations
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This gorgeous leather brooch accessory is made of scraps of leather. It is lovely, versatile and fresh. I used very soft leather in bright colors. Wear it as a hair piece, on your clothes, to brighten up a bag…
The sky’s the limit!
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OK, let’s get started!
You will need:
- Scissors
- Kraft knife
- Hot glue gunCoffee
- Metal pin clasp
- Leather scraps
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Step 1
Cut the template for the petals
Print and cut the templates for the three leaves below. These will be the 3 petal shapes that will make up the flower. There are 3 sizes and it is important that all 3 go from big to smaller…you can make them as big or small as you wish, so long as you keep the proportions between the 3.
The bigger the “leaf”, the bigger the flower will be.
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Step 2
Cutting the leather petals
Trace the templates you have just cut out onto your leather scraps. you will need 4 petals of each size. I chose for them to be in 3 different colors.
you also need to cut a circle out of leather. this will be the base onto which you will glue your petals to form the flower.
Once you have cut them all out, you should have 12 petals and one circle.
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Step 3
Choosing the object (therefore the surface)
Squeeze a small glue blob with the glue gun onto the centre of the button edge of each petal and press with your fingers until stuck and dry (with the glare gun, this should take no more than a few seconds).
Each petal should look like it’s been pinched at its base. See images below.
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Step 4
Choosing the object (therefore the surface)
You should now have 12 “pinched” petals.
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Step 5
Cut the leather base for the flower
With your craft knife, make light and random cuts across the “right” side of the leather. This is to give it some purchase and make the glue stick better to the surface of the leather.
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Step 6
Assembling the leather petals
Now start gluing your peals onto the circle. Squeeze a glue blob onto the base of each petal and press hard onto the circle. First, start with the 4 large petals and position them opposite each other. Now take the medium size petals and place them in between the large petals, Last, position the smallest petals in between the medium ones…See image below.
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Step 7
Making the flower’s centre
Cut a long strip of leather (about 10 cm long by 0.5 cm wide), and place a small glue blob on one end and start rolling it on itself. Each time you roll a little, place another glue blob to fix it in place and carry on rolling. You must use very little glue and make sure you roll neat and tight.
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Step 8
Finishing the flower
Fix the pretty rolled leather strip onto the centre of the flower with the glue gun. Press and hold till dry and stuck.
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Step 9
Fixing the metal pin
Turn your completed leather flower over and place a generous lien of hot glue onto its back, then press the meal clasp onto the glue and hold till dry.
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Tadaaaa!!! There you have it!
A gorgeous leather accessory that you can use endlessly…
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I found this electrical bobbin on a building site and transformed it into a cool “Object d’Art” which is now on display in a funky studio in Shoreditch…All thanks to a fabulous technique of collage on wood!!
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You can make a collage project with almost anything: wooden furniture, a canvas, a glass mirror, etc…your imagination is the limit.
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Look at these cool collage tables, made using the exact technique I will show you in this tutorial…Lovingly hand-made by my friend Marion using vintage Jazz magazines, they are called the “Jazz lovers tables”
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OK, let’s get started!
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You will need:
- The object you wish to collage
- Black and White newspapers
- Magazines
- Personal photographs and images
- Coffee (for staining paper)
- PVA water based glue
- Craft knife and scissors
- Paint brushes
- Foam brushes in assorted sized (look at the London Graphic Design Centre site)
- Varnish. I love the Montana Gold Spray Varnish Matte (the product code for this is T1010)
- Sandpaper, go for wither the Very Fine or Extra Fine grade
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Step 1
Choosing the object (therefore the surface)
I have chosen wood and cardboard…This bobbin’s “body” is made of very hard cardboard and the flat round disks are made of plyboard wood.
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Step 2
Cleaning your surface
With a cotton cloth, clean the dust and dirt off your surface. If you are using wood, sand the surface with the fine sandpaper to remove splinters and render the surface smooth.
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Step 3
Decide on the theme
I went for a “Bike” theme. this bobbin was made as a birthday present for a friend who adores bikes. He now uses it as a decorative item in his studio in Shoreditch.
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Step 4
Gather your material
This is a long and fun process!
You need to spend a considerable amount of time gathering your paper material. These can be collated from various sources:
- Personal photographs from your photo library.
- Newspaper cuttings of words, letters and funny headlines.
- Newspaper writing in black and white, which will make the background of your collage.
- Magazine pictures and cutout letters in funky fonts.
- I used a lot of arabic script printed off the internet, which makes the whole thing look very wacky and cool
- etc…
Note: If you are using personal photographs, you need to print them on normal paper using your home printer (or photocopy them). Photographic paper is too thick and not really suitable for collage.
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Step 5
Seal your surface
In a glass jar, mix PVA water-based glue with clear water. The ratio of glue to water is half and half (50% glue + 50% water). with a Large brush apply a generous layer of glue to every visible surface of your object (in my case, it’s the bobbin) and let it dry thoroughly.
This will seal the wood, which will allow you to paint in any medium on your collage.
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Step 6
Cutting your images
Start cutting your images and laying them out in front of you. I tend to find it easier to make many piles: newspaper black and white text in one, personal printed photos and images in another, letters and headlines in another, magazine images in another, cutout letters in one, and so on and so forth…
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Step 7
Coffee staining
I tend to stain some black and white imaged with coffee to give them an aged antique look. Simply pour some coffee in a cup and with a paint brush apply a thin layer of coffee (liquid) onto your image. Let it dry thoroughly before using it for your collage.
I coffee stained these black and white printed images of henna hands.
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Step 1
Layout and Composition
Now that all your “paper material” is in various piles on a table, start playing around with ideas and make any changes you want to your collage until your get the “composition” that you like the most. You can make a few drafts before applying your materials to your main surface. Be patient and take your time.
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Step 9
Gluing
Start gluing the black and white newspaper around the body of the bobbin first. Overlap them so that you cover every single surface. This is your background, which you will overlap with images at a later stage.
How to glue:
Be VERY generous with the glue: Soak the back of your paper image and smooth it over your surface making sure you press out trapped air bubbles. Do this gently, the paper is wet and will tear easily. Once your image is glued onto your surface, give it a ONCE over layer of glue with your brush to seal it.
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Step 10
Paint Wash
Once you have completed your collage, wait until it is thoroughly dry. You can then white wash parts of your images with paint…To do this, dilute some Acrylic paint with clear water and use a large flat sponge or brush to apply rough strokes of paint across your collaged surface. this will give it a cool and vintage feel…Don’t be afraid to experiment and go wild  !
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Step 11
Varnish
Varnishing is very important, it seals your artwork and makes it water and damage resistant. you have the option to use 2 types of varnish: Decorator’s varnish, applied thickly and evenly with a brush
Spray varnish, which I much prefer
For my bobbin, I used Montana Spray varnish in Matt. To do this, shake the can well and spray evenly your entire surface. Make sure you do this OUTDOORS (in the garden, on the pavement, on the roof, but NOT at home), spray varnish is very toxic!
 
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Step 12
Sanding
Wait for the varnish to dry (preferably 24 hours), then with a fine grain sandpaper, sand your wooden bobbin gently by running the sand paper over the surface in light circular motion. This will smooth the irregularities in the glued paper and will make the surface look like one smooth layer…It looks pretty cool!
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Step 13
Varnish and Sand (…again…and again…)
You can repeat the varnish / sand process as many times as you wish. The more you do it, the smoother and more even and “integrated” your collage will look. For this wooden bobbin, I varnished and sanded twice.
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Et voila, you have a fantastic piece of collage artwork!!!
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I made an appliqué bird which I have ironed onto this lovely white cotton drawstring bag
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Appliqués are fabulous! you can iron them onto almost anything and transform any piece of clothing or accessory, such as a tote bag, into an interesting and colorful piece.
You can also use your applique to patch torn fabric or hide stains. They are ideal for children’s clothes.
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Look at these cool Appliqué projects that I have made with scraps of fabric
   
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Let’s get started!
I will show you how to make the bird appliqué :)
You will need:
- Scraps of fabric.
- Sewing machine (it is also possible to complete the project without stitching).
- iron
- Fusible webbing (such as Bondaweb sold in craft stores of online) (* see note below)
- tracing paper and pencil
- Thread and scissors
- Am image of your choice
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(*) What is fusible webbing?
It is an adhesive paper, a paper-backed glue that can be fused to any type of fabric, which can then be ironed onto other fabric. In the case of fabric that moves and slides (such as silk for example), fusible webbing is used to make the silk more stiff, and therefore easier to be ironed on as an applique.
You can buy it in a pack, a good brand is called “Bondaweb”, this is ideal for small projects. You can also buy it off a roll by the meter which is ideal for lots of Appliqué projects. See image below.
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Step 1
Fusing the fabric
Cut your fabric scraps into a rectangle or square. Place the fusible webbing glue-side down onto the wrong side of your appliqué fabric. Iron onto the fabric by pressing your iron gently onto the paper side of the webbing. Once fused, the fabric should feel stiff and the webbing completely fused to the wrong side of the fabric.
Please note that I prefer to iron-on the fusible webbing onto the whole square of fabric as opposed to just the image I want to use as an appliqué because I store the leftovers fused fabric in a box and use them for other appliqué projects.
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Step 2
Tracing the image
Chose the image for your appliqué. Place tracing paper over your chosen image and trace your pattern using a pencil. I tend to use greaseproof paper as tracing paper, it’s cheap and transparent enough to allow tracing even small graphics.
I have chosen to make a bird, so I have traced the body and the wing separately.
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Step 3
Making the image pattern
Cut out your image with a pair of scissors.
Certain images have an “orientation”, meaning that the components of the image fit together like a jigsaw and have a “front” and back”. I got in the habit of marking “front” and “back” on all my appliqué projects, even the ones that have no “orientation”. Make sure you clearly mark which is the front of your bird (or chosen image).
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Step 4
Cutting the applique
Take your cut-out “bird” and “wing” and trace them again on the paper part of your fused fabric (see step 1).
Use sharp scissors to cut out your appliqué. (you are cutting through the fusible webbing which is not glues to the fabric and its paper backing.)
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Step 5
Making the applique
Once your fused fabric pieces are cut, lay them on a flat surface (or on the fabric that you wish to iron the applique on), to see how your appliqué image will look. I used a button for the eye of the bird.
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Step 6
Ironing and stitching (optional) the applique
You can now iron-on your appliqué to any fabric: a dress, a top, a bag, etc…My appliqué bird is going to be ironed-on a small white cotton drawstring bag.
To iron-on your appliqué, peel the paper backing away from the fused fabric and place the peeled side down onto your drawstring bag. The right side of the fabric is now facing you. Iron the appliqué onto your fabric project until the pieces are all fused together.
I placed my iron on a cotton setting because the fabric of my bag is cotton.
You can either leave the appliqué un-stitched or add machine stitching for decoration. I used a zigzag stitch as well as a running stitch all around the bird and the wing to embellish my appliqué. I hand-stitched the button.
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Click on “How to make a fabric rose” tutorial to learn how to make the flowers on this gorgeous necklace
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This fabulous necklace won the second prize out of over 200 entries in a Folksy UK online competition…I wore it on so many occasions, both casual and formal, and got much attention and flattering remarks.
It really does stand out and adds such a quirky flair to the simplest of outfits.
I hope you enjoy making many of these necklaces in different colors and sizes…It’s so simple to make!
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You will need:
- Fabric scraps to make the flowers. this is a separate tutorial: “How to make a flower rose“
- Needle
- A pair of old lycra tights
- Thread (same color as your tights – I chose black)
- Glass beads
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Step 1
Cut a long strip of your thick lycra tights and fold in half lengthways to form a tube. Pin in place.
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Step 2
Make sure your sewing machine is on the “lycra stitch” setting. Machine stitch the tube.
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Step 3
Trim he excess fabric close to the seam (make sure you don’t cut too close or it will unravel once you turn it over).
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Step 4
Now, turn the tube over inside out to hide the stitches you just did. Use a pencil to assist you, this can be quite fiddly.
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Step 5
Start feeding the glass beads into the fabric lycra tube.
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Step 6
With a needle and a strong cotton thread, stitch the gaps between each bead to form the necklace and stop the beads from collapsing into each other.
You can get creative here and tie an overhand knot instead of stitching, or even stitch two slots between each bead to make decorative gaps between the beads (this is what I did to my necklace, have a look at the picture in step 7 to see what I mean) …Just experiment and see which look you like the most.
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Step 7
Your necklace is now done. Make sure you stitch past the two beads either ends of the necklace to stop them from slipping out and tie a knot at the end to secure around your neck.
You can now attach your fabulous fabric flowers onto your even more fabulous necklace by stitching them on or using a hot glue gun.
Click on my previous “fabric flower tutorial” to see how to make those gorgeous fabric roses.
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This statement headband is trendy, cool and simply lovely on all types of hair…No one would ever guess that it started life as a man’s neck tie!
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Men neck ties come is the loveliest shades and fabric types. Why not scout your man’s wardrobe for old neck ties and transform them into fabulous hair accessories. Better yet, go to your local charity shop and pick up loads of neck ties for a couple of pounds each.
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You will need:
- A man’s neck tie.
- Sewing machine (it is also possible to complete the project by hand-stitching).
- Elastic (1/2 inch wide)
- Button to decorate
- Pins, needle, thread and scissors
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Step 1
Starting with the narrow end of the neck tie, measure 9 inches and place a pin. For the pin you just placed, measure 25 inches and place another pin. See image below.
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Step 2
In steps 2 and 3 we will be forming the flower on the side of the hairband. To do this, you need to do a series of folds. In summary, you will be folding in one direction, then twisting the tie back on itself an folding in the other direction at a 45 degree angle, repeating the process until you form a pretty flower shape.
Follow the 8 steps below as shown in the the pictures but please do not worry about the exact folding order, follow my steps roughly and it will look amazing.
Pin as you go along to make sure the folds stay in place.
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Step 3
With a needle and thread, stitch the flower shape in place. Because of the thickness of the fabric, it may be a little fiddly to stitch it in place so make sure you stitch each few folds at a time. When you finish, do not cut the tread, leave it onto the needle.
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Step 4
With the same needle and thread that you used to stitch the flower, fix a button in place in the centre of the flower.
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Step 5
Position the flower on the side of your head and wrap the neck tie around your head. Measure the size of the hairband and cut it at both ends: the narrow and the wide end. See image below.
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Step 6
Starting with the narrow end, cut the inside lining a further 2 inches so that it is shorter than the outer fabric. See below
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Step 7
Now measure 1 inch and neatly fold the fabric inwards. Insert on each end a piece of elastic, and pin in place to make sure they don’t slide out.
 
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Step 8
Machine stitch the elastic strips in place. Make sure you stitch close to the edge (you can machine stitch twice to make it extra secure). See image below.
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Step 9
You have now finished the narrow end of the hairband. You need to do the same with the wider end, so cut the inside lining a further 2 inches so that it is shorter than the outer fabric (see below).
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Step 10
Starting with one corner, pinch the fabric inwards to create an inner fold (the way you do this is similar to folding a dart). Repeat again on the other corner.
Before you fold the top edge, you need to make sure that both ends of the Neck tie (now a hairband) align, as shown in the image below. This is why we fold the corners of the wide end (step 10 ) but do not do this for the narrow end (step 7).
 
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Step 11
Now you are ready to fold the top straight edge inwards to approximately an inch. It should look like the image below.
Insert the elastic strips, just as you did in step 7 and adjust them to fit your head circumference.
 
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Step 12
Now you are ready to machine stitch the elastic in place and finish your fabulous hairband.
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I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Make sure you start saving all the man neck ties you can get our hands on and if you ever decide to make hairbands, please email me the pictures so that I can post your fabulous creations on my blog!
Happy recycling and upcycling
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These gorgeous scented fabric strawberries are so sweet and squishy…and they smell great too!
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Adults and children alike will love making these fabric strawberries. Sacha and her friends made them as cuddly toys, sprayed the with copious amounts of strawberry cologne, and even gave them names (don’t ask!)
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You will need:
- Fabric (for the strawberry & the leaf), medium weight cotton works best.
- Sewing machine (it is also possible to complete the project by hand-stitching).
- Embroidery yarn (for the eyes and mouth)
- Lightweight paper (to trace the pattern)
- Stuffing (soft toy filling works fine)
- Strawberry cologne (or fruity perfume)
- Pins, needle, thread and scissors
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Step 1
Draw the templates in Figures 1 & 2 (below) onto lightweight paper and cut. You can photocopy these templates and enlarge them to the desired size of your fabric strawberry.
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 Figure 1 - click on image to print & enlarge
 Figure 2 - click on image to print & enlarge ? ? ?
Step 2
Pin the template you just drew to the fabric and cut 2 of fabric strawberry shapes, as well as 2 fabric leaf shapes.
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Step 3
Remove the pins to release the paper, you should now have 4 pieces of cut-out fabric (2 strawberries and 2 leaves). Place the 2 strawberry shapes and the 2 leaf shapes right sides together (wrong sides facing you) and pin to keep in place. Baste using a running stitch.
Make sure you leave the top straight edge of the strawberry unstitched and open.
Make sure you leave an unstitched opening in the leaf to allow you to turn the fabric inside out and stuff. You will be closing this with a blind stitch at the end.
Look at the picture below: the fabric needs to be right sides in so that when you turn it over, it is the right side of the fabric that shows. We use the running stitch to make sure the pieces stay together and aligned when we machine stitch.
Please look at this fantastic online tutorial on how to hand baste using a running stitch: google books on how to teach yourself sewing.
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Step 4
Now that you have secured the fabric together with a running stitch, remove the pins as well as the running stitch (by pulling the thread by one end). Machine stitch all around the strawberry’s curved edges (leaving the top straight edge unstitched).
Machine stitch all around the leaf (making sure you leave a gap unstitched).
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Step 5 – stuffing the leaf
Turn over the leaf using the un-stitched gap. Insert a pencil to help you turn over the pointy tops. Stuff with soft toy filling.
The best and cheapest brand to use is Minicraft Soft toy filling which you can buy in bags of 250 gms from Amazon.
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Step 6 – finishing off the leaf
With a needle and thread, use a slip-stitch and close the opening and finish off the leaf.
 This is a slip-stitch
 Sophie, 10 years old, learns the slipstitch
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Step 7 – stuffing the strawberry
Turn over the strawberry from its open top. Fold the top open edge inwards to about half an inch and stitch along both sides with a running stitch, making sure you secure the first stitches with a knot but do not tie a knot at the end of the thread. Once you have stitched along the entire opening, do not cut the thread (leave the needle in the tread) and your strawberry using the toy filling. See images below.
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Step 8 – finishing the strawberry
With the needle you have just left threaded after stitching along the top of the strawberry, take that length of thread and pull gently but firmly to form a gather in the fabric ad close off the top of the strawberry. Secure with a knot.
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Step 9
To assemble, stitch the leaf on top of the strawberry.
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Optional: pinch the fabric on the leaf and stitch to make little indentations in the stuffed leaf. You may also choose to stitch some eyes and a mouth using an embroidery yarn.
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Spray generously with strawberry cologne or a fruity perfume…et voila!!!!
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Here are 2 images: 1) a Black and white inkjet printed image – 2) the same image transfered onto fabric
The image transfer was a project made during the Cool Mummy Art Workshop and has been used by the talented 10 year old girls to create a fantastic mixed media project on a framed canvas.
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Image transfer on fabric is like magic!
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You can achieve so many different results depending on the ration of soap to turpentine you use. This tutorial gives you an image transfer that is quite vintage looking and simply gorgeous.
During one of the Cool Mummy Art Workshops, the children and I experimented with different ways to image transfer and print on fabric. We followed suggested methods found online and in books.
We used Gesso, Acrylic paint and heat, Image transfer medium, transfer paper, and home-made potions…We decided, unanimously of course , that the home-made potion is by far the coolest and cheapest method to transfer an inkjet image onto fabric.
Before I start with the tutorial, let me make it easier for you to buy the material you need for your image transfer on fabric. You would need to buy either Turpentine Substitute or White Spirit, both of which are distillate of oil and are used for hundreds of applications. Turpentine is more expensive but would be my recommended choice. the difference between the 2 is much like the “difference between 2 and 4 star petrol”, meaning they both do the job.
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Please make sure you do this tutorial in a well ventilated area (preferably outdoors) and use protective gloves.
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You will need:
- Soap (preferably non-perfumed)
- cheese grater
- Turpentine substitute (or white spirit)
- Hot water
- Metal spoon or burnishing tool (like a brayer brush)
- Large brush (a cheap one from a DYI store)
- an inkjet print of the image you want to transfer
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Step 1
Grate 2 heaped tablespoons of soap. You can use any soap you wish but I found that non-perfumed soap works best. Place into a non-plastic bowl and add 11 tablespoons (or 55 ml) of hot water into the bowl. Stir with a large brush until the soap and water are well diluted.
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Step 2
Now go ahead and add 2 tablespoons (or 10 ml) or Turpentine to the mixture and keep on stirring with the brush until you get a paste that is similar in consistency to peanut butter.
Step 3
Make sure the image you are printing onto the fabric is a relatively fresh inkjet printout and not a laser jet one, meaning you have printed it on your home printer a maximum of one hour before you started your fabric image transfer. The older the printout, the more faint the transfer will be.
Now, gently but firmly, brush an even and thick later of your mixture onto the right side of your image (the front) and keep brushing it over and over again for at least a minute and until the paper is slightly soggy.
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Step 4
Wait a few minutes but do not let the paper dry out. Now go ahead and place your image face down onto the fabric you want to print on and gently brush another layer of your mixture on the back of the paper (the image printout).
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Step 5
With a burnishing tool (like a brayer brush) or a large metal spoon, start pressing the back of the paper firmly but gently. If you are using a metal spoon, use circular motions that cover the entire surface of the image you are printing. make sure the paper does not tear (which is hard to do because it is quite soggy by now)…Just work slowly and carefully.
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Step 6
Lift the edge of the paper and check that the image has transferred. If you are not happy with the results, keep on burnishing with the metal spoon until the image has transfered.
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Peel back and enjoy the fabulous results!
The girls wanted their image transfer to have a sepia old vintage look. To achieve this, we used a black & white printed image of themselves and transfered it onto an unbleached canvas fabric. I think they did a fantastic job and their mixed media canvas project is really creative!
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Here are other image transfers on an unbleached cotton canvas tote bag. the bags were then decorated with hand-stamped images and stencils with fabric paints. Have a look at the steps the children followed and their lovely bags!
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I used my fabric flowers to make a statement necklace
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These fabric flowers are so cool and so easy to make!
You can have so much fun makign many of them in different colors ad sizes. Try this project with children and see their amazed faces when the bud starts to form after the fabric strip has been rolled on itself. You might need to help them with the needle to secure the loops.
You will need:
- Fabric scraps: Linen or Cotton. 12 inches long x 1 inch wide
- Needle
- Thread (same color as your fabric)
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Step 1
Choose your fabric. Both cotton and linen work well. Use old men’s shirts or kids old clothes. Cut a strip of fabric which is around 12 inches long and 1 inch wide. Remember, the longer and wider your strip the fuller and larger your fabric rose.
Step 2
Fold the strip of fabric lengthways down the middle and press with either an iron or your fingers. Make sure you press and NOT iron to avoid stretching the fabric.
Your strip of fabric should now be half an inch wide.
Step 3
Hold one end of the fabric strip and roll it in (on itself) to approximately 1/8th of an inch. Secure with your threaded needle then fold it one more time and secure with a thread.
You have just started to form your flower bud.
Step 4
Fold the fabric down to a 90 degree angle and hold firmly between your index finger and your thumb. Now carry on rolling the bud over the fold you just made. Secure with a small stitch with your threaded needle.
Step 5
Do exactly the same as step 4 except this time, fold at a 90 degree angle in the OPPOSITE direction to the previous fold. Roll again over this fold you just made.
Keep folding and rolling in opposite directions. Secure with a thread as you go along.
Step 6
When you get to the end of the strip of fabric, secure with blind stitch to finish off.
Ta-da!!!!
Your flower is now complete!
Don’t worry about the frays in the fabric, they add charm to the completed flower and gives it a vintage feel.
Make as many flowers, in as many colors and use them to decorate necklaces, jackets, hair accessories, bags, gift packaging…or anything that takes your fancy.
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial…and don’t forget to send me pictures of your gorgeous fabric flower rose!
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Here’s a picture of me wearing my fabulous statement necklace with my lovely fabric flowers made of an old linen shirt (the white and red stripey one) and a man’s old cotton shirt (the red one).
If you like lemony things…you will absolutely adore this cake, it is so juicy and yummy! By far one of my favorite cake recipes…
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Ingredients:
- 2 eggs
- 175 g caster sugar (6 oz)
- 150 g soft margarine (5 1/2 oz)
- Finely grated rind of one large lemon
- 175 g self raising flour (6 oz)
- 125 ml milk (4 fl oz)
- Baking cake tin (18 cm square) or a cake mould (the one that looks like a giant doughnut)
For the syrup, you will need:
- 140 g icing sugar (5 oz)
- 50 ml fresh lemon juice (2 fl oz)
- Icing sugar for dusting
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Get cooking:
Baking the cake
1 - Pre-heat oven to 180 degrees and grease your cake tin with soft margarine and dust with flour to prevent sticking. You can alternatively line with non-stick baking parchment.
2 - Soften the margarine in the microwave for just a few seconds so that it is really soft. Put the eggs, caster sugar and margarine in a mixing bowl and beat with a hand whisk until soft and fluffy.
3 – Stir in the lemon rind. Slowly and very carefully, fold in the flour lightly and evenly with a spoon. Make sure the mixture is smooth.
4 – Mix in the milk and stir into the mixture gradually until it is smooth and even.
5 - Spoon the mixture into the greased tin and make sure it is leveled and even.
6 - Bake into the pre-heated oven for 45 minutes or until it is golden and firm to the touch. Take the tin out of the oven and stand it on a wire cooling rack. Do not remove the cake from the tin at this stage.
Making the Syrup & finishing the cake
1 - Place the icing sugar in a small saucepan and very slowly and gradually add the lemon juice while stirring vigorously until the mixture is smooth and there are no sugar lumps in it. Pre-heat gently while sirring until it is warm. do NOT let it boil!
2 - prick the cake all over with a skewer (or a fork) and with a spoon drizzle the syrup all over the cake evenly and untill it is totally absorbed.
3 – Leave the cake in the tin to cool completely before you turn it over and drizzle with icing sugar. You can slice it and place in a tight fitting container to serve as lemon drizzle slices.
Et Voila!!!
Super duper Yummy lemon drizzle cake!
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I used my feather stamp with silver ink to make little gift tags
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Every child loves rubber stamping. Pressing a shape into an ink pad and watching it come to life on paper is one of children’s little pleasures…Rubber stamps are not cheap and I find it really hard to find the design that I want.
This cool little tutorial is fun to make with your kids. You can carve the rubber with the sharp tools and let the kids draw the design and experiment with stamping it on colored paper and cards. You can use the finished rubber stamp to decorate letters, notebooks, wrapping paper, greeting cards, or make your own gift tags…
You will need:
1. Paper and pencil
2. Eraser (pencil rubber)
3. Cutting set
4. Craft knife
5. Ink pad
6. A design of your choice
I usually use a rubber printing block to make my own stamps, but in this tutorial I used a regular eraser that I found in my daughter’s pencil case.
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Step 1
Place your eraser on the paper and mark its outline, this is to make sure that your finished stamp fits on the eraser you are using. Draw your design with a pencil on a piece of paper and cut it out. I chose a feather (although it looks more like a leaf 
 
step 2
Transfer the design onto the eraser by pressing the image you just drew face down onto the rubber. Press quite hard.
 
Step 3
With the U shaped gouge cutter (the one with the blade in a U shape), gently carve around the outline of your design. You don’t really have to press hard, if your tools are razor sharp, they will cut through the rubber like a knife through butter.
Remember, your stamp is like a positive / negative image: the areas that you carve out will not be inked and the areas that are left sticking will make the final design which, when inked, stamps the final shape onto the paper.
Step 4
With the V shaped gouge cutter (the one with the blade in a V shape), carve out the finer lines of your design: for my feather, I used this to cut the centre stem and the fine lines around the stem.
Step 5
With a craft knife, “peel off” all excess rubber around the edges of your design to make sure that the stamp is “clean”. You can press the rubber on the ink pad then onto a paper to see if any excess gum needs to be trimmed to give a cleaner finish.
Step 6
Once all the cutting done and the excess rubber cleared, you are ready to stamp. Hurray! your stamp is finished!
Bring the stamp to the ink pad (or the ink pad to the stamp) and press onto paper or card.
 
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